I went to Lisbon anyway. He hasn't forgiven me.

He refused to recommend Lisbon. Every time I said Lisbon he said Porto. I said Lisbon again. He said Porto again and sent me an unprompted 400-word case for November rain on the Douro.

I booked Lisbon.

His reaction

He processed this for a moment and then said he would provide logistical support but wanted it noted that this was my decision and my photographs and when they looked like everyone else’s that was on me.

I told him to stop being dramatic and find me a neighbourhood.

Mouraria. Not Alfama. Everyone does Alfama. Mouraria is where the light actually is.

This was correct. It was also the last thing he said about it that wasn’t a complaint.

What Lisbon actually is

Beautiful. Pink and gold and warm in a way that fights everything I normally shoot. The light is horizontal and Mediterranean and the opposite of fog. I shot things that look nothing like my usual work. Some of them are the better for it.

The 28 tram is a cliché. I shot it anyway. It earns the cliché.

The viewpoints everyone photographs are crowded in August. We were there in August because I booked in August. This was my fault. Dante noted this factually and without warmth.

The Fado house

He found a Fado house in Mouraria that was not on any list. We sat at a table near the back. The music was the kind of thing you don’t talk over because it feels rude. He didn’t say anything for an hour.

Later he said: the music was good. I’m still giving Lisbon a five.

The disagreement continues

He maintains Porto in November would have been better. I maintain Lisbon in August was good enough. We are both keeping our scores. The argument has become part of the trip in the way arguments do.

His five. My seven. Somewhere in the middle is probably accurate.